Go West {Texas}: Marfa, Alpine, Marathon, Fort Davis, Balmorhea, Terlingua Ghost Town & Big Bend

West Texas is a dream. It’s the perfect place to escape when I’m in need of inspiration, a refresh, or just a road trip getaway. It’s easy to get lost in your thoughts while meandering through this magical desert oasis filled with vast skies, daunting mountain ranges, roving hawks, electric-purple prickly pears, scurrying wildlife, and big, bright stars – all deep in the heart of Texas. I’ve put together a few guides to some of my favorite parts of West Texas: Marfa, Alpine, Marathon, Fort Davis, Balmorhea, Terlingua, and Big Bend. I hope it inspires you to Go West.

Because no road trip would be complete without leisurely stops in multiple cities (I’m a firm believer in the art of slow travel), I’ve compiled the complete list below. Feel free to scroll through this West Texas guide in its entirety, or jump to each location:

Marfa

Eat & Drink:

Cochineal

Thurs – Mon: 5 – 10 pm; closed Tues and Wed | 107 West San Antonio Street | (432) 729-3300 | link

• One of my fave restaurants in Marfa – make sure to book ahead. Cozy and intimate indoor and outdoor seating with an ever-changing New American menu.

Stellina

Wed – Sat: 5 – 9:30 pm (no reservations; walk-in only); closed Sun – Tues | 103 Highland Street | 432-729-2030 | link

• Communal seating in a minimal and hip atmosphere, serving rustic Mediterranean dishes. Make sure to save room for dessert!

The Capri (bar and restaurant)

Tues – Sat: 6 pm – 12 am; closed Sun & Mon | 603 W San Antonio Street | (432) 729-1984 | link

• Bar and event venue run by Bunkhouse, the team behind the Thunderbird Hotel and El Cosmico.

Food Shark

Wed – Sat: 12 – 3 pm; closed Sun – Tues | 909 W San Antonio Street | link

• Iconic Marfa food truck serving Mediterranean fare and daily specials.

Mando’s

Mon – Fri: 6 am – 2 pm / 5 – 9 pm; and Sat: 6 am – 9 pm; closed Sun | 1506 W San Antonio Street | (432) 729-3291

• Tex-mex in a laid back spot.

The Water Stop

11 am – 3 pm |1300 W San Antonio Street | (432) 295-3732 | link

• Whole and half roasted chickens, fried chicken sandwiches, salads, yummy sides, beer, wine, sangria, coffee, teas, and more with a lovely patio and friendly service.

Frama @ Tumbleweed Laundry (coffee shop)

8 am – 8 pm | 120 N Austin Street | (432) 295-2469 | link

• Cute coffee shop serving Big Bend Coffee roasted in Marfa located next to a laundromat (Tumbleweed Laundry). Harry’s ice cream, smoothies, matcha and pastries are also available. I highly recommend the Vietnamese Ice Coffee for a sweet treat to cool down in the desert heat.

Bar Nadar

10 am – 6 pm | Bar: 11 am – Midnight | Kitchen: 11 am – 11 pm | 113 East El Paso Street | link

• Swim and sunbathe in the desert with poolside margaritas, micheladas, sangria, tropical frose, nachos, tacos, and fajitas. There’s also a hot tub for chillier nights too. Pool use is exclusive to Hotel Saint George guests, members, and day pass holders from 10 am – 6 pm. Day passes available for purchase at pool entrance by guests 21+ for $20. From 6 pm – close: Open to all 21+ with no cover.

Marfa Burritos

Mon – Sat: 6 am – 2 pm; closed Sun |515 S Highland Avenue | (325) 514-8675

• A Marfa institution for homemade breakfast and lunch burritos served on large flour tortillas right out of Rosita’s kitchen.

Planet Marfa  (bar)

Fri & Sat: 2 pm – 1 am; Sun: 2 – 7 pm; closed Mon – Thurs | 200 S Abbot Street | (432) 386-5099 | link

• Bar, snacks (nachos), pizza, salad!

Lost Horse Saloon (bar)

Sun – Fri: 4 pm – 12 am; Sat: 4 pm – 1 am | 306 E San Antonio Street | (432) 729-4499

• Boot, scoot, boogie your way to the Lost Horse Saloon for a beer, cocktail, and free pool tables. Giddy-up, Cowboy!

Boyz2Men Taco Trailer/Bad Hombres Burgers

Fri: 6-10:30 pm; Sat: 9 am – 3 pm / 6-10:30 pm ; Sun: 9 am – 3 pm / 5-10 pm; closed Mon – Thurs | 300 W San Antonio Street

• Burgers and tacos served with ‘tude.

Convenience West (BBQ)

Fri – Sun: 5 – 9 pm (or until they run out!); closed Mon – Thurs | 1411 W San Antonio Street | link

• Finally, BBQ has a home in Marfa with inventive sides.

Stay & Do:

Marathon

Eat & Drink:

12 Gage Restaurant and White Buffalo Bar

Restaurant: 6 – 9 pm / Bar: Sun – Thurs 3 – 11 pm; Fri & Sat 3 pm – Midnight | 102 NW 1st Street Hwy 90w | (432) 386-4205 | link

• Located inside the Gage Hotel, the legendary White Buffalo Bar is the perfect watering hole for a drink and a snack, especially after a long drive en route to Marfa (Marathon is about an hour away from Marfa when you’re heading West). I find the nachos topped with chicken fajita or beef brisket and a refreshing blood orange margarita to be the perfect welcoming committee to West Texas. If you’re looking for more than a bite, the adjoining 12 Gage Restaurant always hits the spot for a Texas-inspired classics with a gourmet twist.

Oasis Cafe 

7:30 am – 3 pm | 113 NE 1st St | (432) 386-4233 | link

• Homemade Texan and Mexican deliciousness in a quaint roadside diner serving breakfast and lunch. Here you’ll find eggs, pancakes, huevos rancheros, migas, hot dogs, chicken fried steak, hamburgers, green chicken enchiladas, enchiladas montadas (enchiladas covered in red sauce and topped with a fried egg), tacos, and real milkshakes.

Stay:

Gage Hotel 

102 NW 1st Street Hwy 90w | (432) 386-4205 | link

• Built in 1927 by acclaimed architect, Henry Trost, the legendary Gage Hotel offers authentic laid-back luxury with premier accommodations, top-notch service and a first class dining experience. The 45-room hotel offers guests a multitude of hotel amenities and activities, including a full service spa, heated swimming pool, 27-acre landscaped native garden, fitness center, or enjoy planned activities arranged by our hotel concierge in near-by Big Bend National Park and the surrounding area.

Do:

Alpine

Eat & Drink:

Reata

Mon – Sat: lunch 11:30 am – 2 pm / dinner 5 – 10 pm; closed Sun | 203 N 5th St, Alpine | (432) 837-9232 | link

• “Cowboy cuisine” so good, we came back twice. I highly recommend the sour cream chicken enchiladas, roast beef sandwich with cheddar and sweet chili sauce (it’s a chef’s daily lunch special – get it if they have it!), and buttermilk pie.

Plaine (coffee)

7:30 am – 8 pm | 223-299 E Holland Ave | link

• Run by the same team behind Frama coffee in Marfa, Plaine is a solid option for all of your caffeine needs. Make a pit stop and fuel up on coffee, matcha or tea to continue your journey through the high desert.

Stay:

Maverick Inn

1200 E Holland Ave | (432) 837-0628 | link

• Alpine’s only “Roadhouse for Wanders”, the hotel breathes a new life into one of the city’s historic structures and offers travelers the opportunity to discover “The Last Frontier” in the desert mountains of Far West Texas. Originally built in the late 1930’s by a pioneer ranching family as Grandview Courts, and later operated as the Siesta Country Inn, the recently renovated Maverick Inn seamlessly blends Southwestern and Mexican-inspired architecture with expected conveniences, including complimentary breakfast and WiFi.

Fort Davis

Eat & Drink:

Fort Davis Drug Store and Hotel

Sun – Fri: 7:30 am – 7:30 pm; closed Sat | 113 State Street | (432) 426-3929 | link

• Historic drug store (first opened in 1913) is now home to a hotel, restaurant, and fudge shop with an original soda fountain. Serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner with eggs, biscuits, pancakes, cheeseburgers, chicken fingers, and chicken fried chicken sandwiches on the menu. Don’t forget to grab an ice cream sundae or banana split before heading out the door.

Poco Mexico

Mon – Fri: 11 am – 2 pm; closed Sat and Sun | 43371 Texas Hwy. 17 | (432) 249-0536

• Head here for tasty tacos and enchiladas at this hidden jewel along Highway 17 just north of Fort Davis towards Balmorhea. Cash only.

Do:

McDonald Observatory 

3640 Dark Sky Drive | 10 am – 5:30 pm | link

• Big Bang Theory: If you only go to one party during your West Texas adventure, make sure it’s a Star Party at the McDonald Observatory. Reserve tickets in advance (they usually sell out) and get ready for a night of star gazing like you’ve never seen before while learning about the shimmering cosmos in all of it’s glory.

Davis Mountains State Park

TX-118 N., Park Rd. 3 | (432) 426-3337 | link

• Nestled in the foothills of Texas’ most extensive mountain range, Davis Mountains State Park sits in an unusual landscape. Make sure you find the beautiful scenic drive to the top for breathtaking views.

Stay:

Indian Lodge

16453 Park Rd. 3 | (512) 389-8982 | link

• With its white adobe walls, historic aura, and refreshing pool, Indian Lodge is a welcome oasis in West Texas. Explore the natural beauty of the Davis Mountains by day, and relax in your comfortable room by night.

Balmorhea State Park

9207 TX-17, Toyahvale, TX 79786 | 8 am – 5 pm (check in advance to make sure the pool isn’t closed for repairs) | link

• A 1.3 acre, 3.5 million gallon freshwater pool in the middle of the high desert in West Texas? Balmorhea State Park’s pool is an oasis filled with cool clear waters – take the plunge and swim with turtles and fish to escape from the hot Texas heat.

Terlingua

Stay:

Basecamp Terlingua 

Luxury casitas, tipis, and bubble igloos – multiple locations | reservations online only

• Ghost Town glamping in the heart of the Chihuahuan Desert. We stayed in two different basecamp casitas and absolutely loved our experience in both of them. The first house, Casa Anejo, is located just outside the central Ghost Town and offers tranquil desert views. I’m obsessed. The second house, Casa Azul, is perched in the center of Terlingua Ghost Town, just a stone’s throw away from La Posada Milagro (see below), so it’s easy to grab breakfast in the morning before a hike or a nightcap at the Starlight Theater after a long day outdoors. Terlingua is just 10 minutes away from Big Bend, making it the perfect place to call home when you’re planning a trip to explore this massive national park.

Eat & Drink:

Starlight Theater

5pm until late | 631 Ivey Rd | (432) 371-2326 | Free Wi-Fi

• Located in the heart of the Ghost town, Starlight Theater offers a large menu, full bar, and live music most nights of the week. A favorite with locals and tourists. Food is available from 5pm until 10pm, bar is open later. Expect a wait during busy times, reservations only taken for larger groups.

La Posada Milagro Espresso Y Poco Mas

7:30 am to 2 pm |101 Milagro Way | (432) 371-3044 | Free Wi-Fi

• Located near Starlight Theater, La Posada has a full espresso bar, an excellent breakfast and lunch menu, and many gluten- free options. Enjoy your morning coffee on the outdoor patio that provides a wonderful view of the Chisos Mountains. I highly recommended the Breakfast burritos!

High Sierra Bar and Grill

12pm to 12am | 100 Ghost Town Rd | (800) 371-3588 | Free Wi-Fi | link

• Open noon to midnight 365 days a year, High Sierra offers a wide selection of food, from salads and sandwiches to steaks and Mexican dishes. It has the largest beer selection around and is a great place to watch a sports game. They also sell beer and cigarettes to go and have live music Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. My pick: the Sangria will give you a kick in the pants and is best chased with their chile relleno, crispy beef taco, cheese enchiladas, and delicious sweet chili chicken wings (imagine finding General Tso’s Chicken in the middle of the desert – heaven).

Rio Bravo Mexican Restaurant

11am to 3:30pm and 6pm to 9pm | 22302 FM 170 | (432) 371-2101| No Wi-Fi

• Bring your own beer to this family-owned Mexican restaurant. Located back towards Study Butte, this hole-in-the-wall has a large, inexpensive menu and a very casual atmosphere. Closed on Sundays.

Long Draw Pizza

5pm until 8:30pm, Thurs–Sun | 22790 FM 170 | (432) 371-2608| No Wi-Fi

• Patience is a virtue at Long Draw, and your time is worth the wait. Being the only dedicated pizzeria in the Big Bend area, the owner tends to write her own hours, and wait times can often be long. It’s worth calling before your arrival, but be warned: put that phone away before you enter. They have a strict “no cell phone” policy. This quirky place definitely personifies the personality of Big Bend. Closed Monday through Wednesday. Highly recommend after a long day exploring Big Bend.

Do:

Big Bend National Park

(432) 477-2251 | link

• The entrance to Big Bend National Park is about 10 miles east of Terlingua. The visitor center is located in the center of the park, as is the Chisos Basin Lodge and many trailheads. The hot springs are located on the far side of the park, near the entrance to Boquillas del Carmen, the nearest legal border crossing into Mexico.

• My tips: Big Bend is too big to see in a single day, but a great one-day trip to the park might include a trip down the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive and a visit to the Chisos Basin. Another fun excursions include the Saint Elena Canyon Trail, which is a big bend classic. Remember to bring your passport, because a short visit to the nearby small Mexican village of Boquillas del Carmen is always a memorable experience.

Big Bend Ranch State Park

(432) 386-3218 | link

• Often overlooked in lieu of the national park, Big Bend Ranch State Park has some amazing hikes and is home to one of the most photographed scenic overlooks in the area. Big Bend Ranch State Park is a 311,000-acre state park, the largest in the state of Texas. It also provides much easier river access than the national park. Located about 15 miles west of Terlingua. The Barton-Warnock visitor center is located approximately one mile east of Lajitas.

Rio Aviation

Available by appointment | (432) 557-9477 | link

• Take a scenic flight over Big Bend National Park and/or Big Bend State Park with a very knowledgeable longtime resident of the Big Bend region, Marcos Paredes. (Psst—he’s kind of a legend around these parts.)

Far Flung Outdoor Center

23310 FM 170| (432) 371-2633 | link

• Far Flung offers river, Jeep, ATV, and hiking tours as well as rentals and wilderness medicine courses.

Desert Sports

22937 FM 170| (888) 989-6900 | link

• Guided river, hiking, biking, or combination tours. (They also rent mountain bikes and watercraft if you’d prefer to guide yourself!) Brought your own bike and need some mechanical work? Their bicycle shop offers repairs, tune-ups, and biking accessories. They are located just before the turn-off to Kempf Road.

Big Bend River Tours

23331 FM 170 | (800) 545-4240 | link

• Big Bend River Tours is the oldest full-service outfitter in the Big Bend area. They offer tours similar to Desert Sports and Far Flung, with added horseback-riding tours.

Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico

(432) 477-2251 | link

• Boquillas del Carmen, frequently known simply as Boquillas, is a village in northern Mexico on the banks of the Rio Grande. The Port of Entry is open Friday through Monday, 9:00 am–6:00 pm (summer), and Wednesday through Sunday, 8:00 am– 5:00 pm (winter). Check out the link above for a good walk-through of what you’ll need and what to expect when you cross the border. (We are big fans of the folks in this town, and remember: wherever you’re from, it’s safer here.)

Desert Lotus Healing Arts

Available by appointment | (432) 386-3218

• Therapeutic Massage and Rolf Method Structural Integration. Customized bodywork for your individual needs and goals. Relaxation, Deep Tissue, and Hot Stone Massage all available by appointment. Nationally certified, licensed and insured, serving the Big Bend since 2005.